This March, as we celebrate Women’s History Month. We honor the trailblazers who shaped fashion and culture for generations to come. Designers like Coco Chanel, Vera Wang, and Miuccia Prada have left lasting marks on the industry, influencing the next wave of creatives.
Yet, not all contributions are equally recognized. According to Essence magazine, only 7.3% of American fashion designers are Black. A striking contrast in an industry built on diversity and cultural influence.
Black women designers, in particular, have shaped some of the most iconic images in American culture while often being overlooked, underestimated, or erased. This story highlights five women whose work has influenced design and redefined representation, proving that impact does not always come with recognition.
Ruth E. Carter
Costume Design & Cultural Storytelling
Ruth E. Carter has spent decades redefining what costume design can look like on the big screen. Ruth is known for her work on Black Panther, and more recently, she was nominated for a fifth time for her work on Sinners, breaking the record for most-nominated Black woman in Oscar history. Before her fame, young Ruth used her mother’s sewing machine to learn how to sew, and the rest was history.
With her sights set on moving to Los Angeles to work at the city’s Theater Center, she eventually crossed paths with director Spike Lee to work on five of his films in 1988. Creating this partnership gave her so many opportunities to climb even higher, though the industry has historically overlooked Black creatives.
In an NPR interview, Carter recalled Lee encouraging her and others to think beyond limitations: “He would often say we need to remember that we can be artists also behind the camera.” She later explains that what he said fueled her to bring on other people of color who could exercise their craft. Carter transformed costume designing into a powerful storytelling tool.
You can see her designs in movies such as Black Panther, Sinners, Malcolm X, and Selma. Or visit the African American Museum in Philadelphia to see her costume design.
Ann Lowe
A Historical Seamstress
Ann Lowe was an American fashion designer, and best known for designing the ivory silk wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Bouvier when she married John F. Kennedy in 1953. Ann’s mother and grandmother were skilled dressmakers who sewed for wealthy families in Alabama. Ann’s family taught her how to sew at the early age of five. During her childhood, passing the time, she became better at her craft of sewing from patterns and playing with different fabrics. She learned to use her talents for a career, taking over her family’s business.
As a Black woman working in the mid-20th century, Lowe faced both racial and financial barriers while building her career. After a terrible flood in her workroom ruined Jacqueline’s wedding dress. Anne was working tirelessly on Lowe’s project, which projected a $700 profit, but the job actually resulted in a $2,000 loss. Despite these challenges, she continued to design high-end couture gowns, often for wealthy white clients who did not publicly credit her work. In most cases, her work was minimized, or she suffered financial losses because she did not recoup most of her profits.
Despite all she’s been through, she never stopped doing what she loved, creating dresses. Like many underrecognized designers of her time, Lowe’s legacy wasn’t just about the garments she created, but in the barriers she broke simply by continuing to create. Her story is a reminder that you shouldn’t let anything stop you from achieving your dreams.
You can find her work permanently archived at institutions like The Met and the National Museum of African American History and Culture.
Kitty Black Perkins
Commercial Design
Kitty Perkins helped redefine what representation looked like for a lot of young black girls. As the first Black designer at Mattel, she stepped into a space where dolls didn’t always reflect what we actually looked like.
Before working at Mattel, Kitty already had experience in fashion, which helped her bring a different perspective to her designs. When she started working on Barbie in 1978, she didn’t just see it as a doll; it was something bigger. She wanted black children to feel seen when they are playing with dolls; she wanted it to be more realistic.
In 1980, she became the principal designer for Barbie at Mattel Toys. Instead of focusing on skin tone, she focused on details like hairstyles and clothing that the dolls could wear to reflect black beauty. Making Barbie playtime more intentional than just what they see every day.
Working within a company that had not always centered on diversity, Perkins quietly pushed for change. With clothing, skin tone, and overall beauty in dolls. Designing the first black Barbie was a challenge, but through her work, she helped create something impactful that we see in everyday life.
You can find her designs on just about every Black Barbie sold in retail stores.
Anifia Mvuemba
Innovation & Digital Fashion
Anifa Mvuemba is a fashion innovator, and when it comes to designing beautiful garments for women, she nails it every time. Anifia is known for being body-positive and for celebrating inclusivity and self-expression without compromising luxury.
The Maryland native went on to grow her own brand, Hanifa, and learned from the internet, just like us. She became obsessed with what she could learn from sewing and design, and she made it her mission to create a space for black women to feel seen.
In 2020, Anifia was in lockdown during the pandemic, like all of us. That also meant fashion shows were canceled, but that never stopped her from pushing through. She wanted to hold a digital fashion show, and Pink Label Congo was born. A 3D-fashion show that seemed so effortless. She told Elle magazine. “She studied 3D design software in between designing for Hanifa’s core collection.” This was something that had never been done before: realistic, curvy clothes just floating, with no model. She continues to inspire a new generation of designers to take risks, trust their vision, and create whatever they want to.
You can shop for her collection at Hanifa
@officialhanifa Here’s to our very first Tik Tok. Our first digital show #PinkLabelCongo 🇨🇩
Aurora James
Fashion Activism
Aurora is someone you can’t go without mentioning. Not only is she the creator of Brother Vellies, a Brooklyn-based luxury brand known for beautiful handbags and shoes. Aurora’s idea was “keeping traditional African design practices and techniques alive.” Creating luxury accessories that celebrate cultural histories and timeless designs.
In 2020, her impact went beyond what she could design. James created the 15 percent pledge, a campaign that called on major retailers to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. What started as a call to action quickly turned into a national movement, with companies like Sephora and Macy’s committing to the pledge
As a newcomer in business ownership, James understood that the issue wasn’t just about being seen on the cover of a magazine or running ads. It was about access and opportunity to purchase something that is fit just for you, from your own community. She understands this work can open doors for many, and she wants to lead the way.
This fabulous lineup of women represents more than just fashion. It’s about creativity and resilience, something you love, you just can’t put down. From Ann Lowe, who lost everything, never giving proper credit, to pushing through hardship. To Ruth E. Carter, who brought culture to life on screen, showing us that representation matters on the big screen.
From Kitty Black Perkins, transforming representation for every little black girl who wants to see herself become a Barbie doll. To Aurora James, challenging the system when it comes to black businesses, and lastly, Anifa Mvuemba, showing us what the future of fashion can look like when we add technology to our benefit. Together, their stories remind us that being an underdog doesn’t mean being invisible. It means making an impact across generations to come.
